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Steps
1In a large bowl, stir together the yogurt, garlic, ginger, lemon juice, garam masala, turmeric, cumin, coriander, chili powder and 1 tablespoon of the salt. Add the chicken, toss until every piece is coated, and marinate at least 30 minutes on the counter, or up to overnight in the fridge.
2Meanwhile, heat the vegetable oil in a large skillet over medium heat. Cook the sliced onions, stirring often, for 18 to 22 minutes until deep golden brown and crisp at the edges. Scoop out half the onions onto a plate and leave the rest, with their oil, in the skillet.
3Crumble the saffron into the warm milk and let it steep while you cook the rice.
4Heat the oven to 350°F. Bring a large pot of water to a boil and add the bay leaves, cinnamon stick, cardamom pods, cloves and 1 tablespoon salt. Add the rinsed rice and boil for 5 to 6 minutes, until the grains are about 70 percent cooked, firm in the center and tender outside. Drain in a colander.
5Pick out the bay leaves, cinnamon stick, cardamom pods and cloves from the drained rice and discard them.
6Scrape the marinated chicken and all its marinade into a dutch oven and spread it into an even layer. Add the slit serrano chiles and the onions and oil from the skillet. Sprinkle over a third of the mint and cilantro.
7Spoon half the rice over the chicken in an even layer. Scatter over another third of the herbs and half the reserved fried onions. Top with the remaining rice, then the last of the herbs and onions.
8Drizzle the saffron milk and the melted ghee over the top layer of rice. Cover with a sheet of foil pressed against the rim, then set the tight-fitting lid on top so the steam stays in.
9Bake for 45 minutes, until the chicken is cooked through and the rice on top is tender. Rest, still covered, for 10 minutes.
10Uncover and use a wide spoon to scoop straight down through all the layers so each serving gets chicken, white rice and saffron rice. Serve with yogurt or cucumber raita if you like.